Warré hive: dimensions, plans, nadiring, harvest and state laws in the US

A Warré hive is a vertical hive made of small square boxes, 300 x 300 mm (11 13/16 x 11 13/16 in) and 210 mm (8 1/4 in) deep inside, stacked on one another, in which the bees build natural comb down from eight wooden top bars, with no frames and no foundation. You add empty boxes underneath the colony, a practice called nadiring, and you harvest from the top, so the brood nest is rarely opened. Designed by the French priest Abbé Émile Warré in the early 20th century, it is one of the favorite hives of natural and treatment-light beekeepers in the US. Before you build one, check your state’s apiary law: some states require movable frames, and a plain Warré may not qualify.

What is a Warré hive?

Abbé Warré and Beekeeping for All

Émile Warré (1867-1951) was a French Catholic priest and a dedicated beekeeper. He writes that he kept about 350 hives of different systems, including the Dadant, the Layens, straw skeps and mixed designs, and compared them for labor, equipment cost, winter stores and crops. From those trials came the hive he called the ruche populaire, the “people’s hive”: cheap, simple and buildable by anyone with a saw and a hammer.

He described it in L’Apiculture pour tous. The 5th edition, published in Tours in 1923, still offers three versions: fixed comb, movable frames and a mixed type. The 12th edition, of 1948, is the reference today. Patricia and David Heaf translated it into English as Beekeeping for All (Northern Bee Books, 2010), and that translation, with a free electronic version, is why the design spread to North America. Heaf, a beekeeper in North Wales, also drew the metric plans most American builders follow.

The idea: a hive closer to a tree cavity

Warré’s reasoning rests on a few ideas from his book:

• A narrow, tall nest. In a hollow tree, bees build comb from the top down in a column. Warré argued that the small 900 cm² (140 sq in) ceiling of his 30 x 30 cm box is easier for the colony to keep warm than the much wider ceiling of a Dadant, which he believed saved energy and honey.
• Few openings. In his view every inspection chills the brood and costs stores. In his method the hive is opened from above once a year, at harvest.
• Heavy insulation on top. A quilt about 10 cm (4 in) deep, filled with dry plant material, sits over the bars to hold heat and absorb moisture.
• No foundation. The bees draw natural comb with the cell sizes they choose.

The volume fits what bees prefer. In their classic study in Insectes Sociaux (1978), Thomas Seeley and Roger Morse offered swarms nest boxes of 10, 40 and 100 liters; the swarms clearly preferred the 40 liter (about 10.5 gallon) box. Two Warré boxes give about 38 liters, very close to that.

Insulation is part of the argument. The University of Leeds, reporting Derek Mitchell’s research, notes that most manufactured hives, with thin 19 mm (3/4 in) wooden walls, lose about seven times more heat than natural nests in tree hollows with 150 mm (6 in) walls. A standard Langstroth box has walls about that thickness. The Warré quilt does not close the gap, but it adds a dry layer of insulation exactly where heat escapes.

What are the dimensions of a Warré hive?

The figures come from David Heaf’s metric plans, based on the 12th edition, and from Warré’s description of the top-bar version. The plans are metric; inch figures are conversions, so cut to the millimeter if you can. What matters is the inside: keep 300 x 300 mm whatever lumber you use.

Part	Dimension	Notes
Box, inside	300 x 300 mm (11 13/16 x 11 13/16 in)	keep exactly
Box depth	210 mm (8 1/4 in)	about 1,150 cu in (19 L) per box
Wall thickness	20 mm (3/4 in) minimum	7/8 in or thicker is stiffer and warmer
Box, outside	about 340 mm (13 3/8 in) with 20 mm boards	about 13 1/2 in with 7/8 in boards
Top bars	8 per box	24 mm (15/16 in) wide
Top bar length	315 mm (12 3/8 in)	sits in a rabbet on two opposite walls
Gaps	12 mm (about 1/2 in) between bars and at each wall	36 mm (1 7/16 in) center to center
Top bar cloth	burlap or linen	laid over the bars, under the quilt
Handles	cleats 300 x 20 x 20 mm (11 13/16 x 3/4 x 3/4 in)	one on each side
Quilt	about 100 mm (4 in) deep	filled with wood shavings, straw or dry leaves
Roof	gabled, ventilated	fits over the quilt with a little play
Floor	15 to 20 mm (5/8 to 3/4 in) thick	entrance about 120 mm (4 3/4 in) wide

Check the math: eight bars of 24 mm and nine gaps of 12 mm make exactly 300 mm. Converting with rounded fractions throws this off, which is why the metric plan is safer. The 12 mm gap is wider than the 1/4 to 3/8 in (6 to 9.5 mm) bee space you know from Langstroth frames, but it is not meant as one: it is the passage between boxes, and comb spacing is set by the 36 mm (1 7/16 in) center-to-center distance of the bars.

For comparison, a 10-frame Langstroth deep is 9 5/8 in (245 mm) tall and close to 20 x 16 1/4 in outside, so a Warré box holds less than half the volume. Our guide to the Langstroth hive gives its full dimensions.

Framed Warrés and other variants

Warré drew a movable-frame version himself and later dropped it. In the 5th edition that box is wider, 335 x 335 mm inside, with nine frames, to make up for the space lost to side bars. Many beekeepers today use top bars with side bars or full frames sized for Warré boxes, so each comb lifts out whole. US makers sell bars and frames for their boxes. A framed Warré is no longer Warré’s hive in the strict sense, but it makes inspection far easier, and in states with movable-frame laws it may be the only Warré you can legally keep.

How does a Warré hive work? Nadiring explained

On a Langstroth, supers go on top. On a Warré you slide each empty box under the stack, onto the bottom board. The colony extends its combs downward, the queen follows the brood nest down, and honey collects in the boxes above it, where you harvest.

This has three consequences:

• The brood nest stays closed. You lift the stack, put the new box on the floor and lower the stack onto it.
• Comb is renewed. The queen lays in new comb, and old comb works its way up to the harvest zone. In a Langstroth you have to rotate old brood comb out yourself.
• You can add more than one box. Warré wrote that you could add several at once, since nadiring lets no heat out of the nest.

Read the signal from below. When the combs reach the lower third of the bottom box before a flow, add a box with wax starter strips. Keep the bars of the new box parallel to those above, or the bees will build cross comb.

The cost is physical. A stack of three or four boxes with honey can weigh well over 50 lb (23 kg), and you lift all of it at each nadir. Many Warré keepers work in pairs or build a hive lift, a frame with a winch or a lever and forks.

A Warré year in the Northeast and Midwest

US climates are too varied for one calendar. The table follows a typical year in the Northeast and the Midwest; adjust it with your state extension service’s beekeeping calendar.

Period	What to do
February to March	Heft the back of the stack to judge stores; clear dead bees from the entrance; read the sticky board
April to May (maple, dandelion, fruit bloom)	Look at the combs from below with a flashlight or mirror; nadir one or two boxes before the main flow
May to June (swarm season)	Watch for queen cells on the bottom edges of combs; space reduces swarming but does not stop it
June to July (black locust, clover, basswood)	Harvest full, capped top boxes as the main flow ends
August (summer dearth)	Mite count and treatment; reduce the entrance against robbing
September to October (goldenrod, aster)	Check stores, remove empty bottom boxes, mouse guard on
November to February	Hive on two or three boxes, quilt dry, entrance reduced; oxalic acid in the broodless period

Other regions shift the calendar. In the Pacific Northwest, blackberry gives the main flow in June and July, and a long, wet winter makes a dry, well-ventilated quilt essential. In the Deep South, where colonies may raise brood almost all year and Africanized honey bees are established in parts of Florida, Texas and the Southwest, wintering is easy but swarm sourcing and varroa need more care. In California, sage and orange blossom give spring crops, and summer heat makes the ventilated gable roof and shade matter more than insulation.

Wintering on two boxes and a dry quilt

A Warré winters on two boxes, about 10 gallons (38 L). In late fall the cluster settles at the top of the lower box or in the upper one and moves up into its stores, the natural movement in a vertical cavity. Check three things:

• The quilt must stay dry. Damp shavings lose their insulating value and mold. Replace the fill in fall if it is packed down or wet, and keep the roof vents open.
• The entrance is reduced to a couple of inches, with a mouse guard from October.
• Stores are checked by hefting, lifting the back of the stack an inch or two, without opening. A light hive in February takes fondant or a sugar brick on the top bars, under the cloth.

In his 5th edition Warré reckoned a fixed-comb hive needed only 12 kg (26 lb) of winter stores. That is too little to rely on in a Minnesota, Vermont or Michigan winter. In cold regions leave the whole upper box full, consider a third box of honey, and wrap the stack in roofing felt or foam board.

How do you build a Warré hive?

Warré designed his hive to be built by anyone with plain boards and basic tools. This method follows Heaf’s plans.

Lumber and tools

You need untreated pine, cedar or another local softwood, 3/4 to 1 in thick (20 to 25 mm), 3/4 x 3/4 in cleats for handles, strips about 15/16 x 3/8 in (24 x 10 mm) for top bars, galvanized nails or stainless screws, exterior wood glue and burlap. Tools: a saw, a speed square, a drill, and a chisel or router for the rabbets. A table saw makes top bars quicker and more accurate.

Step by step

1. Cut the four walls of each box so the inside is 300 x 300 mm and the box is 210 mm deep. Check it is square: a racked box will not stack tight and lets in drafts and robbers.
2. Cut a rabbet along the top of two opposite walls for the top bars, so the bars sit flush with the top of the box.
3. Assemble with glue and screws, then fix a handle cleat to two opposite sides. Bevel the top of the cleats so rain runs off.
4. Make eight top bars of about 315 mm (12 3/8 in) per box. Run a bead of melted beeswax or fix a thin wax starter strip along the center of each bar, so the bees build along the bars, not across them.
5. Space the bars with 12 mm gaps between them and at each wall, using spacers or brads so they stay put when you move the box.
6. Build the floor, 5/8 to 3/4 in thick, with the entrance slot and a landing board. A screened bottom board with a removable sticky board is not in Warré’s original design, but it is the best way to count mite drop without opening the hive.
7. Make the quilt: a frame about 4 in deep with burlap stapled across the bottom, filled with wood shavings, straw or dry leaves.
8. Make the roof, which covers the quilt with a vented space under its cover for summer heat and moisture. A solid board over the quilt keeps mice and wasps out of the fill.
9. Protect the outside with linseed oil, beeswax or exterior latex paint. Leave the inside bare and do not use pressure-treated lumber.

Accuracy beats finish. A few millimeters too much between bars and the bees build bridges of comb you cannot separate cleanly. The rest of your kit, veil, smoker, hive tool and feeder, is the same as for any hive.

How do you get bees into a Warré hive?

Packages and swarms

The US package bee trade is an advantage for Warré keepers. A package has no frames, so the bees go straight onto Warré bars. Shake them into two boxes with starter strips, hang or place the queen cage, close up with the quilt and roof, and feed 1:1 sugar syrup in a top feeder until they have drawn several combs. A 3 lb (1.4 kg) package is a modest start; a 4 lb package or a large swarm builds faster. Order packages in winter for April delivery.

A natural swarm is just as good: it arrives ready to build. Many bee clubs keep swarm lists. In regions where Africanized bees are established, a wild swarm may be very defensive; work with your state apiarist’s advice and be ready to requeen. Our guide to swarming explains how to catch and hive one.

Nucs

Nucs in the US come on Langstroth deep or medium frames, too wide for a 300 mm box. Some beekeepers cut the combs to fit and tie them to Warré bars, or set the nuc on an adapter board over a Warré box until the bees move down. Both disturb the colony. If you want a nuc, start it in a Langstroth, or use a package.

When and how do you harvest honey from a Warré hive?

You harvest from the top, in boxes above the brood nest. As the queen moves down with the comb, the top box usually holds only honey by the end of a flow. Take only boxes that are full, capped and broodless.

When to harvest

In the Northeast and Midwest the usual window is July, after clover and basswood, which leaves time to treat for mites in August and for the bees to store fall goldenrod and aster honey. In the South you may take a spring crop and leave the summer honey. Wherever you are, the colony must go into winter with its upper box full.

Step by step

1. Pick a warm day, around midday, with the foragers out.
2. Take off the roof and quilt and puff a little smoke through the cloth.
3. Separate the top box by drawing a fine wire or a long blade between it and the box below, to cut the wax bridges.
4. Lift the box and look underneath for brood. If you see any, put it back and wait a few weeks.
5. Clear the bees with a soft brush, or put an escape board between the boxes the day before.
6. Replace the cloth, quilt and roof on the box that stays.
7. Cut the combs off the bars indoors, away from bees, to avoid robbing.

Crush and strain, press, or sell comb

Combs on plain Warré bars cannot go in a radial extractor. You crush and strain them through a double sieve or a paint strainer bag into a bucket in a warm room, or press them in a fruit press. Natural comb also makes excellent cut comb honey and chunk honey in jars, with no processing at all. The wax, all from new comb, is very clean. Our guide to harvesting honey covers bottling and moisture.

If you sell, the FDA’s honey labeling guidance says a product labeled “honey” must be honey only; honey mixed with sugar or syrup must be labeled as a blend. Sales of small batches are governed by state food law and cottage food rules, which differ widely, so check with your state department of agriculture.

How much honey to expect

There is no Warré yield as such: forage, weather and colony strength matter more than the hive. USDA NASS reports that US honey-producing colonies averaged 48.0 lb (21.8 kg) in 2025, almost all from Langstroth hives. Expect less from a Warré than a Langstroth in the same yard, because the bees rebuild every comb you take, and a first-year colony from a package often gives nothing.

Varroa mites and disease in a Warré hive

Varroa destructor is in practically every US apiary, and no hive design protects a colony from it. Warré wrote decades before varroa reached the US in 1987, so his “open once a year” rule needs one change: you must monitor and, in most years, treat.

Monitoring

A screened bottom board with a sticky board gives a rough trend without opening the hive. For a decision, the Honey Bee Health Coalition’s Tools for Varroa Management (9th edition, June 2026) recommends an alcohol or soap wash of about 300 bees (1/2 cup) from the brood nest, and treatment at 1 or more mites per 100 bees (1%) in the dormant and population-increase phases, and 2 or more (2%) in the peak and decline phases. In a Warré you must lift a brood comb from below, or cut one free on a framed bar, to shake bees into a tub, so many keepers sample only in spring and late summer, when it matters most.

Treating: EPA-registered products, used to the label

Only EPA-registered pesticides may be used against varroa, and the label is the law. EPA’s list, updated September 17, 2026, includes amitraz (Apivar), oxalic acid (Api-Bioxal and others), formic acid (Formic Pro, Mite Away Quick Strips), thymol (Apiguard, Api Life Var), hop beta acids (HopGuard 3) and others. Labels are written for Langstroth brood chambers, so in a Warré you must work out placement while keeping the dose per colony the label sets:

• Thymol and formic acid products sit on top of the bars, under an empty box or a shim, with no comb disturbance. Read the temperature limits on the label before you apply them.
• Oxalic acid dribbled between the combs or vaporized through the entrance works best in the broodless period, in November or December in the North.
• Strips that hang in the brood nest, such as Apivar, must be pushed down between combs from above, which means opening the hive and breaking some comb attachments.

Drone brood removal, useful in framed hives, is hard without frames. See our full guide to varroa mites for doses and timing.

The weak point: checking brood

American foulbrood is diagnosed from brood: sunken, perforated cappings and, with a matchstick, a ropy larval remains. On a plain Warré you can tip a box and look at combs from below, or cut a comb’s side attachments and swing it out on its bar, but the view is partial. That is why many US Warré keepers move to framed bars, and why several states treat frameless hives as a problem.

Warré or Langstroth: which should you choose?

	Warré	Langstroth (10-frame)
Basic box	300 x 300 x 210 mm (11 13/16 x 11 13/16 x 8 1/4 in) inside, about 19 L	deep 9 5/8 in (245 mm) tall, 10 frames
Expansion	boxes added underneath	supers added on top
Comb	natural comb on starter strips	foundation, usually
Inspection	partial, from below	complete, frame by frame
Winter stores	about 26 lb (12 kg) by Warré’s estimate; plan more in the North	two full deeps or more in the North
Extraction	crush and strain, press, cut comb	radial or tangential extractor
Comb renewal	built in	planned by the beekeeper
Lifting	the whole stack at each nadir	one box at a time
State law	may need a framed version	accepted everywhere
Bees and parts	packages, swarms; few makers	packages, nucs, every supplier

The research is thin. A 2024 study in Insects by Rola Kutby and colleagues followed four Warré and four 8-frame Langstroth colonies for 130 days in Perth, Western Australia. The median hive temperature was 33.5 °C (92.3 °F); Warré hives were warmer in the morning, cooler in the afternoon and less humid, while the Langstroth colonies gained significantly more weight, with no significant difference in stored honey. In Massachusetts, a SARE-funded study compared 16 top-bar and 16 Langstroth hives and found no statistically significant difference in peak colony weight; it tells you about frameless natural comb in general, not the Warré specifically.

Closer to the Warré’s logic, Loftus, Smith and Seeley (PLoS ONE, 2016) compared colonies in small 42 liter (about 11 gallon) hives, not managed against swarming, with colonies in large hives of up to 168 liters (44 gallons) in New York State. Over two years the small-hive colonies swarmed more, but had lower varroa infestation, less disease and better survival. The result concerns nest volume and swarming, not the Warré itself, and frequent swarms are not welcome in a suburban yard.

For most beginners the Langstroth is still the safe first hive: clubs and extension short courses teach on it, nucs come on its frames, and it meets every state law. The Warré suits a beekeeper who wants to observe more than manipulate, accepts a smaller crop, and is still rigorous about mites and brood checks. Our comparison of types of beehives sets it beside the top-bar and long hive.

Are Warré hives legal in every state?

There is no federal rule on hive design. Apiary law is made by each state, and several require hives whose combs can be removed for inspection, the original reason for movable-frame laws being American foulbrood control. Examples:

• Arkansas: the state’s Apiary Rules say a person “may not keep bees in a hive which does not have movable frames.” An inspector gives written notice to move the bees into a movable-frame hive within 12 months at most; otherwise the hive is condemned and destroyed.
• Vermont: 6 V.S.A. § 3029 says “all hives shall be constructed with frames containing the honeycombs and brood combs,” removable for inspection. Inspectors can order an immediate transfer or allow time for one, and the law allows a permit program for exhibition hives.
• Florida: Rule 5B-54.011 prohibits keeping bees “in containers without movable frames,” but for top-bar hives makes the owner “responsible for facilitating the movement of the comb during an inspection.”
• Illinois: the Bees and Apiaries Act lists hives that are hard to inspect, and unregistered colonies, among the nuisances the Department of Agriculture can order abated.

Whether a plain Warré with bars counts as “movable frames” is up to each state’s inspectors, and the answer can differ from one state to the next. Before you build or buy, call your state apiarist or state department of agriculture, describe the hive, and ask whether a plain-bar or a framed Warré is acceptable. Register your colonies where your state requires it. Our overview of beekeeping laws by state lists contacts and registration rules. Local zoning, HOA covenants and city ordinances may add rules on hive numbers and setbacks.

How much does a Warré hive cost?

In October 2026 Bee Built, an Oregon maker, sells a western red cedar Warré box listed at 13 1/2 x 13 1/2 x 8 1/4 in with 7/8 in (22 mm) walls, outside measurements that match the standard 300 mm interior, for $165 with an observation window or $160 without; top bars are extra, from $8. Its full Warré kit, with two windowed boxes, a quilt box, a composite roof, a base and feet, costs $699, and a third or fourth box adds $160 to $165 each. David Heaf’s list of suppliers names makers in Oregon, Washington, Michigan and Connecticut, and warns that some sell modified designs, so check the inside dimensions.

Building your own is much cheaper: a few 1x12 pine or cedar boards make the boxes, and offcuts make the bars, quilt and roof. Add a veil, gloves, a smoker, a hive tool, a feeder, a varroa product, a sugar-roll or alcohol-wash kit and the bees. Join a local bee club or take an extension beginner course even if nobody there keeps a Warré: you will learn to read brood and spot disease much faster with experienced beekeepers around you.

Frequently asked questions

What are the dimensions of a Warré hive?

Each box measures 300 x 300 mm (11 13/16 x 11 13/16 in) inside and 210 mm (8 1/4 in) deep, about 1,150 cubic inches (19 liters). It holds eight top bars 24 mm (15/16 in) wide and 315 mm (12 3/8 in) long, with 12 mm (about 1/2 in) gaps. Outside dimensions depend on the lumber: with 7/8 in walls a box is about 13 1/2 in square.

Is a Warré hive legal in my state?

It depends on the state. There is no federal hive rule, but several states require movable frames. Arkansas says bees may not be kept in a hive without movable frames, Vermont requires frames that can be removed for inspection, and Florida bans containers without movable frames and makes top-bar hive owners responsible for moving comb at inspection. Call your state apiarist before you buy, and consider a framed Warré.

Can I put a package of bees in a Warré hive?

Yes, and packages are one of the easiest ways to stock a Warré in the US, because there are no frames to fit. Install the bees in two boxes with wax starter strips on the bars, put the quilt and roof on, and feed 1:1 sugar syrup until they have drawn several combs. A 3 lb (1.4 kg) package is a modest start; a 4 lb package builds comb faster.

Is a Warré hive better than a Langstroth?

Not better, different. A Warré gives natural comb, fewer openings and built-in comb renewal, and suits a hands-off beekeeper. A Langstroth gives full frame-by-frame inspection, extracted honey, bigger crops and standard parts from every supplier, and it satisfies every state inspection law. Most extension services and bee clubs teach on the Langstroth, so many people start there and add a Warré later.

How do you treat varroa mites in a Warré hive?

With an EPA-registered product, used exactly as its label directs; the label is the law. Thymol and formic acid products that sit on top of the bars suit a Warré, and oxalic acid dribble or vapor works best when the colony is broodless in early winter. Monitor first with a sticky board under a screened bottom, and treat at the Honey Bee Health Coalition thresholds.

How much honey does a Warré hive produce?

Less than a Langstroth in most years, because the bees must rebuild every comb you take. USDA reports an average of 48.0 lb (21.8 kg) per honey-producing colony in 2025, almost all from Langstroth hives. A first-year colony from a package often gives nothing.

How much does a Warré hive cost?

In October 2026 an Oregon maker sells a western red cedar Warré box with a window for $165, or $160 without, and a full kit with two boxes, a quilt box, a roof, a base and feet for $699. Top bars are extra, from $8. Building your own from untreated pine or cedar boards costs far less if you have a table saw.

How do you winter a Warré hive in the North?

On two boxes, with the upper one full of capped honey, a dry quilt of wood shavings or straw over the cloth, a reduced entrance and a mouse guard. Check stores by hefting the back of the stack, never by opening it in cold weather. In the Northeast and upper Midwest, many Warré keepers also wrap the stack and add a third box of honey.

Sources

1. Warré hive plans, metric (version 1.2, 2011, after the 12th edition of Beekeeping for All), D. Heaf, biobees.com
2. Beekeeping for All (translation of the 12th edition by P. and D. Heaf) and other translations, warre.biobees.com
3. L'Apiculture pour tous, 5th edition (Tours, 1923), facsimile, Abbé Émile Warré, digitized by biobees.com
4. Warré hive suppliers, forums and links, warre.biobees.com
5. Warre hive box with window (price, dimensions and kit prices), Bee Built
6. Nest site selection by the honey bee, Apis mellifera (Insectes Sociaux 25, 323-337, 1978), T. D. Seeley and R. A. Morse, Springer
7. How honey bee colonies survive in the wild: testing the importance of small nests and frequent swarming (PLoS ONE 11(3): e0150362, 2016), J. C. Loftus, M. L. Smith and T. D. Seeley, KOPS University of Konstanz
8. The effect of hive type on colony homeostasis and performance in the honey bee (Apis mellifera) (Insects 15(10): 800, 2024), R. Kutby, B. Baer-Imhoof, S. Robinson, L. Porter and B. Baer, MDPI
9. Comparative influences of hive architecture in Apis mellifera fitness (ONE12-159, final report), USDA SARE
10. Research challenges beliefs on honeybee insulation (work of D. Mitchell), University of Leeds
11. Tools for Varroa Management, 9th edition (June 2026), Honey Bee Health Coalition
12. EPA-registered pesticide products approved for use against varroa mites in bee hives (updated September 17, 2026), US Environmental Protection Agency
13. Fla. Admin. Code R. 5B-54.011: Apiary inspection procedures, Legal Information Institute, Cornell Law School
14. 209.02.19 Ark. Code R. 018: Apiary Rules, Legal Information Institute, Cornell Law School
15. 6 V.S.A. § 3029: Movable comb frames required, Vermont General Assembly
16. Bees and Apiaries Act, 510 ILCS 20/2-1 (nuisances), Illinois General Assembly
17. Guidance for industry: proper labeling of honey and honey products (February 2018), US Food and Drug Administration
18. Honey (March 2026 report, 2025 data), USDA National Agricultural Statistics Service