Warré hive: dimensions, plans, harvest and UK rules

The Warré hive for UK beekeepers: box dimensions in mm, building plans, nadiring, crush and strain harvest, varroa medicines, inspections and 2026 prices.

A Warré hive is a vertical hive made of small square boxes, 300 x 300 mm and 210 mm deep inside, stacked on top of one another, in which the bees build their own natural comb down from eight wooden top bars, with no frames and no foundation. You add empty boxes underneath the colony, a practice called nadiring, and you harvest from the top, so the brood nest is rarely opened. It was designed by the French priest Abbé Émile Warré in the early 20th century, and in Britain it is one of the hives most used by natural and low-intervention beekeepers, alongside the top-bar hive. It is legal everywhere in the UK, but it is harder to inspect than a National, and it asks for the same discipline on varroa and foulbrood.

What is a Warré hive?

Abbé Warré and Beekeeping for All

Émile Warré (1867-1951) was a French Catholic priest and a keen beekeeper. In Beekeeping for All he writes that he tried around 350 hives of different systems, including Dadant, Layens, straw skeps and mixed designs, and compared them for the work they demanded, the cost of the equipment, the winter stores they needed and the crops they gave. From these trials came the hive he called the ruche populaire, the people’s hive: cheap, simple and within the reach of anyone with a saw and a hammer.

He described it in L’Apiculture pour tous. The 5th edition, published in Tours in 1923, still offers three versions: fixed comb, movable frames and a mixed type. The 12th edition, of 1948, is the reference today. Patricia and David Heaf translated it into English as Beekeeping for All, published by Northern Bee Books in 2010, and that translation is why the design spread through the English-speaking world. David Heaf, who keeps bees in North Wales, also drew the metric plans that most British builders follow, and he hosts the main English-language Warré resources online.

The principle: a hive closer to a natural nest

Warré’s reasoning, set out in his book, rests on a few ideas:

A narrow, tall nest. In a tree hollow, bees build their combs from the top down in a column. Warré argued that the small 900 cm² ceiling of his 30 x 30 cm box is easier for the colony to keep warm than the much wider ceiling of a Dadant, which he believed saved energy and honey.
Few openings. In his view, every inspection chills the brood and costs the colony stores to restore the nest temperature. In his method the hive is opened from above once a year, at harvest.
Heavy insulation on top. A quilt about 10 cm deep, filled with dry plant material, sits over the top bars to hold heat and absorb moisture.
No foundation. The bees draw natural comb with the cell sizes they choose.

The volume he chose fits what bees prefer. In their classic study published in Insectes Sociaux in 1978, Thomas Seeley and Roger Morse offered swarms nest boxes of 10, 40 and 100 litres; the swarms clearly preferred the 40 litre box. Two Warré boxes give about 38 litres, very close to that figure.

The British climate gives the insulation argument some weight. The University of Leeds, reporting Derek Mitchell’s research, notes that most manufactured hives, with thin 19 mm wooden walls, lose about seven times more heat than natural nests in tree hollows with 150 mm walls. The Warré’s quilt does not close that gap on its own, but it is a cheap, dry layer of insulation exactly where heat escapes, which is more than a bare crown board on a National offers.

What are the dimensions of a Warré hive?

The figures below come from Heaf’s metric plans, based on the 12th edition, and from Warré’s own description of the top-bar version. What matters is the inside: keep 300 x 300 mm whatever thickness of timber you use.

Part	Dimension	Notes
Box, inside	300 x 300 mm	keep exactly
Box depth	210 mm	about 19 litres per box
Wall thickness	20 mm minimum	thicker timber, 24 mm or more, is stiffer and warmer
Box, outside	about 340 x 340 mm	with 20 mm boards
Top bars	8 per box	24 mm wide
Top bar length	315 mm	sits in a rebate on two opposite walls
Gaps	12 mm between bars and at each wall	36 mm centre to centre
Top bar cloth	hessian or linen	laid over the bars, under the quilt
Handles	battens 300 x 20 x 20 mm	one on each side wall
Quilt	about 100 mm deep	filled with straw, wood shavings or dry leaves
Roof	gabled, ventilated	fits over the quilt with a little play
Floor	15 to 20 mm thick	with an entrance about 120 mm wide

Check the arithmetic: eight bars of 24 mm and nine gaps of 12 mm make exactly 300 mm. The 12 mm gap is wider than the 6 to 9 mm bee space you know from a National, but it is not meant as one: it is the passage between boxes, and comb spacing is set by the 36 mm centre-to-centre distance of the bars.

For comparison, a National brood box is about 460 mm square outside and 225 mm deep, so a Warré box holds well under half the volume. Our guide to the National hive has its full dimensions.

Framed Warrés and other variants

Warré himself drew a version with movable frames and later abandoned it. In the 5th edition this box is wider, 335 x 335 mm inside, with nine frames, to make up for the space lost to side bars. Many beekeepers today use top bars with side bars, sometimes called a modified or framed Warré, or Hoffman-style frames sized for Warré boxes, so that each comb can be lifted out whole. UK makers sell boxes ready for either simple bars or frames. A framed Warré is no longer Warré’s hive in the strict sense, but it makes disease inspection and varroa management far easier, and many British practitioners think that is a fair trade.

How does a Warré hive work? Nadiring explained

In a National, supers go on top of the brood box. In a Warré you slide each empty box under the stack, onto the floor. The colony extends its combs downwards, the queen follows the brood nest down, and honey accumulates in the boxes above the nest, where it is harvested.

This has three consequences:

The brood nest stays closed. You lift the stack, put the new box on the floor, and lower the stack back on it.
Comb is renewed. The queen lays in young comb, and old comb works its way up into the harvest zone, where it is removed. In a National you must plan a comb change yourself.
You can add more than one box. Warré wrote that you could add several at once, since nadiring lets no heat out of the nest.

In practice you read the signal from below. When the combs reach the lower third of the bottom box before a flow, add a box with wax starter strips. Keep the bars of the new box parallel to those above, or the bees will build cross comb.

The cost is physical. A stack of three or four boxes with honey can weigh several tens of kilos, and you lift all of it each time you nadir. Many Warré beekeepers in Britain work in pairs or use a hive lift: a frame with a winch or a lever and forks that raises the stack while the new box goes in.

A Warré year in the British climate

The UK’s maritime climate, with a fast spring flow, a frequent June gap and a late heather crop in the uplands, shapes the Warré calendar. The dates below suit lowland England; Scotland, Wales and northern England often run two to four weeks later.

Period	What to do
February to March	Heft the back of the stack to judge stores; check the entrance; count natural mite drop on the tray
April to May (oilseed rape, fruit blossom, hawthorn)	Look at the combs from below with a torch or mirror; nadir one or two boxes before the main flow
May to June (swarming season)	Watch flight and look for queen cells from below; space reduces swarming but does not stop it
June gap	Check weight; a stack that gets lighter needs feeding if a cold, wet spell drags on
July (lime, bramble, clover)	Harvest full, capped top boxes once the main flow ends
August (ling heather in the uplands)	Harvest early enough to treat; take heather boxes late August or early September
September to October	Varroa treatment, check stores, remove empty bottom boxes, mouse guard on
November to January	Hive on two boxes, quilt dry, entrance reduced; oxalic acid in the broodless period

Oilseed rape honey crystallises quickly, often within a couple of weeks, so a box filled with it in spring and left on the hive can turn solid in the comb. If your bees forage on rape, decide early whether you will take that box in June or leave it to the bees as stores. For forage throughout the season, see our guide to plants for bees.

Wintering on two boxes and a dry quilt

A Warré winters on two boxes, about 38 litres. In late autumn the cluster settles at the top of the lower box or in the upper one and moves up into its stores through the winter, which is the natural movement in a vertical cavity. Three things need checking in a British winter:

The quilt must stay dry. Damp shavings or straw lose their insulating value and go mouldy. Our wet autumns make this the commonest Warré problem; replace the filling if it is compressed or damp, and make sure the roof is ventilated.
The entrance is reduced to a few centimetres, with a mouse guard from October.
Stores are checked by hefting, lifting the back of the stack a few centimetres, without opening. A light hive in February can take a block of fondant on the top bars, under the cloth.

In the 5th edition Warré reckoned a fixed-comb hive needs only 12 kg of winter stores, against 15 kg for a framed hive. The National Bee Unit’s general advice is about 20 kg of honey per colony, and that is the figure to plan on in Britain, where a cold, late spring can keep bees indoors well into April. Leave the top box full and do not cut stores to Warré’s figure.

How do you build a Warré hive?

Warré designed the hive to be built by anyone with plain boards and simple tools, and that remains one of its attractions. This method follows Heaf’s plans.

Materials and tools

You need untreated local softwood or cedar boards 20 to 25 mm thick, battens of 20 x 20 mm for handles, strips of about 24 x 10 mm for the top bars, galvanised nails or stainless screws, exterior wood glue and hessian. For tools: a saw, a try square, a hammer or drill, a chisel or a router for the rebates. A table saw makes the top bars much quicker and more accurate.

Step by step

Cut the four walls of each box so the inside measures 300 mm by 300 mm and the box is 210 mm deep. Check it is square: a twisted box will not stack tightly and lets in draughts and robbers.
Cut a rebate along the top of two opposite walls to take the top bars, so the tops of the bars sit flush with the top of the box.
Assemble the walls with glue and nails or screws, then fix a handle batten to two opposite sides. Bevel the top of the handles so rain does not sit on them.
Make eight top bars of about 315 mm per box. Run a line of melted beeswax or fix a thin wax starter strip along the centre of each bar, so the bees build along the bars rather than across them.
Space the bars with 12 mm gaps between them and at each wall, using spacers or light nails so they do not shift when the box is moved.
Build the floor, 15 to 20 mm thick, with the entrance slot and a landing board. An open mesh floor with a removable tray is not in Warré’s original design, but it is the best way to count mite drop without opening the hive.
Make the quilt: a frame about 100 mm deep with hessian stretched across the bottom, filled with chopped straw, wood shavings or dry leaves.
Make the roof, which covers the quilt and has a ventilated space under its cover to dump summer heat and carry away moisture. A solid board on top of the quilt stops mice and wasps nesting in the filling.
Protect the outside with linseed oil, beeswax or an exterior paint safe for hives. Leave the inside bare and avoid pressure-treated timber.

Accuracy matters more than finish. A few millimetres too much between bars and the bees will build bridges of comb you cannot separate cleanly. The rest of the kit, a veil, smoker, hive tool and feeder, is the same as for any hive: see our list of beekeeping equipment for beginners.

How do you get bees into a Warré hive?

A swarm is the easiest way

A natural swarm is the best start for a Warré, because it arrives ready to build comb and has no frames to fit. A large prime swarm builds fastest. Put two boxes with starter strips on the floor, the quilt and roof on top, and run the swarm in at the entrance or drop it through the top before the bars go back on. If the weather turns cold and wet in the week after hiving, a little syrup helps the bees build.

Most local associations run a swarm list in May and June. Ask to be put on it for a prime swarm, and explain that you want it for a Warré so the collector knows you can take the whole cluster. Our guide to swarming explains how to collect and hive one.

What about nucs?

Almost every nucleus sold in the UK comes on National frames, which are far too wide for a 300 mm box. Some beekeepers cut the combs to fit and tie them to Warré bars, or place the National nuc above a Warré box on an adapter board until the bees move down, but both are awkward and disturb the colony. If you buy a nuc, ask whether the supplier can provide one on Warré bars or frames, or keep it in a National for its first season and let the next swarm start your Warré.

When and how do you harvest honey from a Warré hive?

You harvest from the top, in the boxes above the brood nest. Because the queen moves down with the comb, the top box usually holds only honey by the end of a flow. Take only boxes that are full, capped and free of brood.

When to harvest

In lowland Britain the usual window is July, after the main summer flow from lime, bramble and clover, which still leaves time for varroa treatment and for the bees to top up stores from late forage. Near heather moors you can wait until late August or early September. Whatever the date, the colony must go into winter on two boxes with the upper one well filled.

Step by step

Pick a mild day, around midday, when the foragers are out.
Take off the roof and quilt, and puff a little smoke through the cloth.
Separate the top box from the one below by drawing a fine wire or a long blade between them to cut the wax bridges.
Lift the box and look underneath for brood. If you see any, put it back and wait a few weeks.
Clear the bees with a soft brush, or put a clearer board with a Porter bee escape between the two boxes the day before.
Replace the cloth, quilt and roof on the box that stays.
Cut the combs off the bars with a knife, indoors, away from bees, to avoid robbing.

Getting honey out without an extractor

Combs on simple Warré bars cannot go in a centrifugal extractor. You either crush and strain them, leaving the broken comb on a sieve over a bucket in a warm room, or press them in a fruit or honey press. You can also sell part of the crop as cut comb or chunk honey, which needs no processing at all. The wax, all from young comb, is very clean.

These words matter if you sell. Under the Honey (England) Regulations 2015, with equivalent regulations in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland, drained honey is honey obtained by draining de-capped broodless combs, pressed honey is honey obtained by pressing broodless combs with or without moderate heat not exceeding 45 °C, and comb honey is honey stored by bees in freshly built broodless combs, or on thin sheets of pure beeswax foundation, sold in sealed whole combs or sections of them. These names are reserved: you may use them only for products that meet the definition. Most British beekeepers pack in 1 lb (454 g) jars; for jars, labels and settling, see our guide to harvesting honey.

Heather honey suits the Warré. Ling heather honey is thixotropic, a jelly that does not spin out of the comb unless it is first loosened cell by cell, so National beekeepers usually press it or sell it as cut comb. With a Warré you lose nothing by crushing.

How much honey to expect

There is no Warré yield as such: forage, weather and colony strength count far more than the hive. In Britain, expect less than from a National in most years, because the bees must rebuild every comb you take, and comb costs them nectar. A colony started from a swarm often gives nothing in its first year.

Varroa and disease in a Warré hive

Varroa destructor is in practically every apiary in the UK, and no hive design, natural or not, protects a colony from it. Warré wrote before varroa reached Europe, so his “open once a year” method needs one change today: you must monitor and, usually, treat.

Monitoring without opening

An open mesh floor with a tray is the Warré beekeeper’s best tool. The National Bee Unit’s November 2025 varroa guideline asks every beekeeper to monitor at least four times a year and keep the mite population below about 1,000, because at around 2,500 mites the colony suffers irreversible damage. The NBU’s tables convert average daily natural mite drop into an estimated population for each season. Sugar rolls and alcohol washes are harder in a Warré, because you must cut or lift a brood comb to shake bees from it, so tray counts do most of the work.

Treating: authorised medicines only

The NBU’s bee medicines fact sheet is clear: anything placed in a hive to control a pest or disease is a medicine, and only products authorised by the Veterinary Medicines Directorate may be used without a veterinary prescription. Without a prescription it is an offence to use home-made preparations such as raw oxalic acid crystals or self-made thymol solutions. The June 2025 list includes:

Thymol: Apiguard gel trays, Api Life Var and Thymovar strips;
Formic acid: Formic Pro strips;
Oxalic acid: Api-Bioxal (its solution GB only), Oxybee, Oxuvar, Dany’s BienenWohl and Varroxal (GB only);
Formic and oxalic acid together: VarroMed;
Amitraz: Apivar and Apitraz strips;
Tau-fluvalinate: Apistan.

The Warré’s vertical, fixed-comb nest favours some of these. Apiguard trays and formic acid strips go on top of the bars, under an eke or an empty box, without disturbing the comb. Oxalic acid trickled between the combs, or sublimed through the entrance, works best in the broodless period around midwinter. Strips that hang in the brood nest, such as Apivar, have to be pushed down between combs from the top, which means opening the hive and breaking some comb attachments. Follow the dose per colony on the label, adapt only the placement, and keep a record of every medicine you buy, use or dispose of for at least five years, as the law requires. Drone brood removal, a useful biotechnical method in framed hives, is hard to do without frames. For doses and timing see our full guide to varroa mites.

The weak point: checking brood

American and European foulbrood are found by looking at brood: sunken, perforated cappings, and in American foulbrood a ropey larval remains when you draw a matchstick out. On a plain Warré you can tip a box and look at the combs from below, or cut the side attachments of a comb and swing it out on its bar, but the view is partial. That is the main reason many British Warré beekeepers move to bars with side bars or frames.

Warré or National: which should you choose?

	Warré	National
Basic box	300 x 300 x 210 mm inside, about 19 litres	brood box about 460 mm square outside, 225 mm deep, 11 frames
Expansion	boxes added underneath	supers added on top, above a queen excluder
Comb	natural comb on starter strips	usually wired foundation
Inspection	partial, from below	complete, frame by frame
Winter stores	about 12 kg by Warré’s estimate	about 20 kg, NBU guidance
Extraction	crush and strain, press, cut comb	extractor, or press for heather
Comb renewal	built in, through harvest	planned by the beekeeper
Lifting	the whole stack at each nadir	one super at a time
Bees and kit	swarms; few nucs; few suppliers	nucs everywhere; every supplier and association

Research on the Warré is thin. A 2024 study in Insects by Rola Kutby and colleagues followed four Warré and four eight-frame Langstroth colonies for 130 days in Perth, Western Australia. The median hive temperature was 33.5 °C; the Warré hives were warmer in the mornings, cooler in the afternoons and less humid, while the Langstroth colonies gained significantly more weight, with no significant difference in stored honey.

A study by Loftus, Smith and Seeley (PLoS ONE, 2016) in New York State compared colonies in small 42 litre hives, not managed against swarming, with colonies in large hives of up to 168 litres. Over two years, the small-hive colonies swarmed more, but had lower varroa infestation, less disease and better survival. The finding is about nest volume and swarming, not about the Warré itself, and frequent swarms are not welcome near British neighbours.

The National remains the sensible first hive for most British beginners: it is what your association, your mentor and the BBKA Basic Assessment use, and what every nuc comes on. The Warré suits the beekeeper who wants to watch more than manipulate, has access to swarms, accepts a smaller crop and is still rigorous about varroa and brood checks. Our comparison of types of beehives puts it alongside the Commercial, WBC, top-bar and others.

Warré hives and the law in the UK

No UK law sets the type of hive you must use. A Warré carries the same duties as a National:

Notifiable diseases and pests. Under the Bee Diseases and Pests Control Orders (in England the 2006 Order as amended, with separate Orders in Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland), you must report any suspicion of American foulbrood, European foulbrood, small hive beetle (Aethina tumida) or Tropilaelaps mites. Failing to report is an offence.
Varroa reporting. Since 21 April 2021 varroa has been reportable in England, Wales and Scotland. You report it once, through BeeBase, or in Scotland to the bee health team.
Inspections. Bee inspectors examine brood comb by comb. In England and Wales they are from the National Bee Unit, part of APHA, working for Defra and the Welsh Government; in Scotland they are the Scottish Government’s Bee Inspectors; in Northern Ireland, DAERA. With a plain Warré you must be ready to lift the stack and let the inspector examine the combs; it helps to explain your hive when you register.
Registration. Voluntary everywhere in the UK and free: on BeeBase in England, Wales and Scotland, where the Welsh Government strongly recommends it, and on DAERA’s DataBees in Northern Ireland. Registering means inspectors can warn you if foulbrood is found nearby. Our guide to registering your bees has the steps for each nation.
Medicines. Only VMD-authorised products, used to the label, with records kept for at least five years.

How much does a Warré hive cost in the UK?

In October 2026 Simon the Beekeeper, a UK maker, sells a complete Warré in sustainably sourced white deal, with an open mesh floor, four boxes with observation windows and insulation boards, a quilt box and a gabled roof, for £275 with a wooden roof or £320 with a copper one, including VAT. Top bars or frames are not included, so you choose plain bars or a framed version. David Heaf’s links page lists other makers, from Cornwall to Norfolk, and warns that some sell modified designs, so check the inside dimensions before buying.

Building your own costs much less if you have tools: the timber for a four-box hive, a floor, a quilt and a roof is a few planks of softwood. The English translation of Beekeeping for All costs £12.50 post paid from Northern Bee Books, and a free electronic version is available online.

Budget for the rest as for any hive: veil, gloves, smoker, hive tool, feeder, mouse guard, a varroa medicine and the bees. And join your local association: even if nobody there keeps a Warré, you will learn brood, disease and swarm control far faster among experienced beekeepers.

Frequently asked questions

What are the dimensions of a Warré hive?

Each box is 300 mm square and 210 mm deep inside, about 19 litres. It carries eight top bars 24 mm wide and 315 mm long, with 12 mm gaps between bars and between the end bars and the walls. With 20 mm boards the outside is about 340 mm square. Keep the inside sizes whatever timber thickness you use, because the bars and the bee spacing depend on them.

Is a Warré hive good for beginners in the UK?

It can be, but it is harder to learn on. Association teaching apiaries, the BBKA Basic Assessment and most mentors work with Nationals and lift frames comb by comb. A good plan is to learn on a National at your local association and run a Warré beside it, so you can recognise healthy brood, queen cells and disease before you rely on looking at combs from below.

Can I put a National nucleus into a Warré hive?

Not directly. National frames are far too wide for a 300 mm box. The simplest way to stock a Warré is with a swarm, which is ready to build comb. Some beekeepers cut the combs of a nucleus to fit and tie them to Warré bars, or use a framed adapter box, but both disturb the bees. Ask your association swarm coordinator to put you on the list for a prime swarm in May or June.

Do I need permission to keep bees in a Warré hive?

No. No UK law prescribes a hive model, and registration on BeeBase, or on DataBees in Northern Ireland, is voluntary and free. You must still report suspected American or European foulbrood, small hive beetle and Tropilaelaps, report varroa once in England, Wales and Scotland, and let bee inspectors examine your combs. Check your lease, tenancy or local rules if you keep bees in a garden or allotment.

How do you treat varroa in a Warré hive?

With a medicine authorised by the Veterinary Medicines Directorate, used according to its label, exactly as in a National. Thymol trays and formic acid strips placed over the top bars suit the Warré well; oxalic acid trickled between the combs or sublimed works best in the broodless period in winter. Monitor first with a mesh floor and tray, and keep the record of every medicine for at least five years.

How much honey does a Warré hive produce?

Less than a National in most years, because the bees must rebuild every comb you harvest. Forage, weather and colony strength matter far more than the hive. In Britain a first-year colony from a swarm often gives nothing, and the June gap and wet summers can wipe out a crop. Take only full, capped boxes and leave the colony two boxes for winter.

Can you extract heather honey from a Warré hive?

Yes, and the Warré is well suited to it. Ling heather honey is thixotropic, a jelly that will not spin out of comb unless each cell is first stirred with a heather loosener, so National beekeepers usually press it or sell it as cut comb. Warré combs are crushed and strained or pressed anyway. If you sell it as pressed honey, a reserved description, no heat above 45 °C may be used.

How much does a Warré hive cost in the UK?

In October 2026 a UK maker sells a complete white deal Warré, with a mesh floor, four boxes, a quilt box and a gabled wooden roof, for £275, or £320 with a copper roof, without top bars. Building your own from untreated softwood costs much less if you have basic tools. Add a swarm or bees, a veil, a smoker, a hive tool and a varroa medicine.

Sources

Warré hive plans, metric (version 1.2, 2011, after the 12th edition of Beekeeping for All), D. Heaf, biobees.com
Beekeeping for All (translation of the 12th edition by P. and D. Heaf) and other translations, warre.biobees.com
L'Apiculture pour tous, 5th edition (Tours, 1923), facsimile, Abbé Émile Warré, digitised by biobees.com
Warré hive suppliers, forums and links, warre.biobees.com
Warré hive with wooden or copper roof (price and contents), Simon the Beekeeper
Nest site selection by the honey bee, Apis mellifera (Insectes Sociaux 25, 323-337, 1978), T. D. Seeley and R. A. Morse, Springer
How honey bee colonies survive in the wild: testing the importance of small nests and frequent swarming (PLoS ONE 11(3): e0150362, 2016), J. C. Loftus, M. L. Smith and T. D. Seeley, KOPS University of Konstanz
The effect of hive type on colony homeostasis and performance in the honey bee (Apis mellifera) (Insects 15(10): 800, 2024), R. Kutby, B. Baer-Imhoof, S. Robinson, L. Porter and B. Baer, MDPI
Research challenges beliefs on honeybee insulation (work of D. Mitchell), University of Leeds
Preparing your hives for winter (Fact sheet 19), National Bee Unit, APHA
Varroa (Best Practice Guideline No. 11, November 2025), National Bee Unit, APHA
Bee medicines: products authorised in the UK (fact sheet, June 2025), National Bee Unit, APHA
Report Varroa, National Bee Unit, BeeBase
Honey bees: protecting them from pests and diseases, Defra and APHA, GOV.UK
The Bee Diseases and Pests Control (England) Order 2006 (as amended), legislation.gov.uk
Healthy honey bees, Welsh Government
Honey bee health: guidance, Inspections, Scottish Government
Beekeepers voluntary registration on DataBees, DAERA
The Honey (England) Regulations 2015 (SI 2015/1348), regulation 2 and Schedule 1, legislation.gov.uk
Basic Assessment, British Beekeepers Association